Do It Yourself

Frequently Asked Questions

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• 1.    Why choose hardwood flooring?
  • Hardwood flooring has a natural beauty that will give any room a very warm feeling. When building a new home, or adding on an addition or just taking up old carpeting that doesn't have a hardwood floor underneath, you should look at the wide variety of wood flooring available. Unlike carpet, the 3/4" thick wood flooring can take wear and tear and last well over 100 years. Maintenance is minimum. Just vacuum, or dry mop at least once a week. Spills can be easily wiped up without the worry of staining. When the surface finish wears, or gets scratched over time, you can sand and refinish the floors to make them new again. For people with allergies wood flooring is one of the best types of flooring to have. With carpeting dust mites thrive and dirt and pollen build up in the carpet even with constant vacuuming and washing. Dust and pollen are simply cleaned away from a wood surface. With the many varieties of woods and colors of wood flooring, it's easy to find one that will fit most any design option you have. Hardwood Flooring is also the only floor covering that will add resale value to your home.
• 2.    How do I choose a hardwood floor style that is right for me?
  • Some options to consider when choosing a wood floor are:
    • The style or look of the wood flooring widths of the boards, desired
    • The type of wood and
    • The grade of the flooring.
    Also affecting your decision is what the wood flooring will be installed over and the type of subfloor in the room. i.e. plywood, tile or cement. Wood flooring is manufactured;
    • 3/4" solid flooring (unfinished, or pre-finished)
    • Engineered (unfinished, or pre-finished)
    • Longstrip (pre-finished)
    • Parquet (unfinished, or pre-finished)
    There are also a variety of specialty products to enhance your room. Products such as borders or feature strips in domestic or exotic woods, crests and medallions, laser inlays and patterns. Wood register covers.
• 3.    What are the types of installation methods?
  • Nail Down – Typically used with the 3/4" solid products, however there are adapters available for thinner flooring sizes as well. 1-1/4 - 2" nailing cleats are used with a wood flooring nailer and mallet to attach the flooring to the subfloor. Solid Strip floors or Plank floors can only be installed on wooden subfloors or sleepers on or above grade. Our flooring comes complete with a set of easy to follow directions on how to install that flooring.
    
    Staple Down – 1" to 2" inch Staples are used versus nailing cleats to attach the wood flooring to the subfloor. A pneumatic gun is used to drive the staple into the wood flooring and subfloor. This procedure is easier than the nail down for do-it-yourself installations. Not all wood flooring manufacturers recommend the same staple gun. Read our manufacturers installation manual to assure you have the right staple gun and right size staples.
    
    Glue Down – The recommended mastic or adhesive is spread on with the proper sized trowel to adhere the wood flooring to the subfloor. It is not recommended to glue down 3/4" solid.
    
    Engineered and parquet floors – Engineered wood floors can be glued, nailed or stapled; parquets can only be glued down. There are many types of adhesives on the market, please use the manufacturers recommended adhesive when installing their flooring. Not using the manufacturers recommended adhesive and trowel size could void any warranties you may have.
    
    Floating – With the floating installation method the floor is not mechanically fastened to any part of the subfloor. There is a 1/8 inch thick pad that is placed between the wood flooring and the subfloor. A recommended wood glue is applied in the tongue and groove of each plank to hold the planks together. The padding protects against moisture, reduces noise transmission, softer under foot, and provides for some additional "R" value. Some Engineered floors and all Longstrip floors can be floated. This is a very fast, easy and clean method of installation. Please consult the manufacturer installation instructions to see if your flooring can be floated.
• 4.    What can damage a wood floor?
  • Water—Wet mopping or excessive water causes wood grain to raise and the wood to expand, crack, splinter and possibly, in extreme cases, to discolor or mildew.
    
    Oil Soaps — Do not use Murphy Oil Soap™, Endust™, Pledge™, Future™, Mop’n Glo™, Brite™ or other waxes/polishes. Such products will harm the long-term performance of your floor, and may affect its recoatability later.
    
    Ammonia Cleaners — Do not use ammonia cleaners or non-recommended cleaners because they will dull or damage your hardwood floor. Never use Fantastik™ or Formula 409™.
    
    High Heel Shoes — Heels that have lost their protective caps or shoes with any sharp exposed nail or stone will exert up to 8,000 lb per square inch of pressure on a floor. That’s enough to damage any type of floor covering.
    
    Sunlight — Exposure to the sun and its UV rays can cause wood floors to fade, change color, or experience surface checking, and even cause color changes in its protective polyurethane finish. To avoid these problems we recommend using draperies or shades to help block out the sun’s harmful rays.
• 5.    How do I care for my new wood floor?
  • Daily general maintenance is highly recommended to help keep your real wood floor looking its best.
    
    
    General Maintenance - Immediately blot up spills or spots with a damp cloth.
    
    Biweekly - Vacuum or sweep your floor.
    
    Monthly - Clean floor with Anderson cleaner. Apply the cleaner to a clean, dampened sponge as directed and wipe the surface of your floor. Follow up with a clean, dry terry cloth towel to dry the surface. Never pour cleaner directly onto the floor.
• 6.    How do I figure out how much hardwood to purchase?
  • For your convenience, we have included a graphic diagram of how to properly measure a room to determine how much hardwood you should buy.
    
    Most flooring is sold by the square foot. The square footage is the actual measurement of the area to be covered by flooring. A waste factor of 5% must be added to the amount of square footage of flooring needed to allow for cutting waste. Example: a 10' x 10' room = 100 sq. ft. 5% of 100 is 5 so you will have to purchase 105 sq. ft. in order to have enough flooring. The cutting waste also allows for some minor defects if any in the wood to be cut out.
    
    See an example floorplan.
• 7.    Is hardwood flooring more expensive than carpeting?
  • A high quality wall-to-wall carpet costs more than most of the hardwood flooring products sold at The Hardwood Flooring Stores. Looking at flooring as a purchase that will last for generations with proper maintenance, it is clearly a better value. Once hardwood flooring is laid down it doesn't require expensive steam cleaning and may only need an inexpensive re-coating after a generation of use (depending on wear and tear). Comparing this to carpeting which needs expensive deep cleaning every year or two and replacing after only a few years, hardwood is obviously the better value and much less expensive in the long term.
• 8.    I've heard there are health benefits of hardwood flooring. Is this true?
  • This is true. Whereas carpets gather dust, animal dander, mildew, mites, pet urine, pollen and other irritants that can cause respiratory difficulties and are also harmful to those suffering from asthma or allergies, properly maintained hardwood flooring is extremely resistant to penetration from irritants and is the doctor recommended flooring choice.
• 9.    On what surfaces can hardwood flooring be installed?
  • Hardwood flooring can be installed on any hard surface, including: ceramic, vinyl, marble, concrete, plywood, wooden sub-floors and old hardwood flooring. Different types of hardwood flooring may be needed for different surfaces, so consult with an expert at The Hardwood Flooring Stores before deciding.
• 10.  When do I know it's time to re-coat or refinish my floor?
  • When your floor begins to look worn this is a sign that it may need sanding or refinishing. A simple test to tell what you need to do is to pour a tablespoon or two of water onto your floor. If the water beads, your floor is simply a little dirty or tarnished from wear and tear. The solution in this case is just some cleaning or stain removal. If over a period of a few minutes the water slowly soaks into your floor, your floor is partially worn and will need re-coating or refinishing soon, but for now just take a little extra care. If the water soaks right in, it is time to re-coat or re-sand and refinish your flooring.
• 11.  Can I re-coat my floor instead of re-sanding?
  • If your floor has not been waxed or oiled re-coating is a great option. It takes less time, is significantly less expensive than re-sanding and creates less of a mess. The new aluminum oxide finishes last for about a generation before any major re-coating or refinishing is required unless the floors have been abused. If you re-coat your floors every few years, before the finish has worn through, you will prolong the life of the surface of your floor and reduce the need for re-sanding.
• 12.  Why does my floor have cracks in it?
  • In is common for cracks to appear in floors, especially with wider planks, due to shrinkage and expansion over the year. Small cracks are not harmful to the floor and most will only appear seasonally due to changes in moisture levels. In order to reduce or eliminated the chances of getting cracks in your floor, make an effort to maintain a humidity level between 45% and 55% throughout the year. Air conditioning or a de-humidifier in the humid summer months and an humidifier during drier seasons helps to keep the humidity level more stable year round.
• 13.  Why does my floor squeak?
  • Usually this is due to a poor sub-floor like those found in many older homes. The old 3/8" strip flooring reacts to the humidity changes by expanding and contracting, sometimes causing a cupping or crowning effect on the strips. When you walk on the floor the pieces might flatten out and cause a rubbing effect that gives a creaking sound. It is best to avoid using any solid 3/8" flooring if possible. In newer floors it can sometimes be a result of shifting of your floor because of changing humidity. This can be avoided by maintaining an equal humidity level throughout the year.
• 14.  Are there different ways I can install my floor?
  • Most floors are designed for a specific installation method. These methods include: nail down, staple down, glue down, floating or the "click" system. Consult an expert at The Hardwood Flooring Stores to know what method is best suited for your floor and if there are any alternative methods.
• 15.  How do I control contraction and expansion of my floor?
  • This is a very common question with a very simple answer. To ensure your floor stays in place and has a long life free of damaged caused my extreme contraction and expansion, maintain the humidity in your house at a level between 45% and 55%. This is a simple and efficient step to increase the longevity of your floor. An added benefit of maintaining humidity is your personal comfort.
• 16.  What can cause damage to hardwood floors?
  • Excessive water can seep into the floor and cause the wood grain to raise and the wood to expand, crack, or splinter. Excess wear and tear or abuse caused by not protecting areas that lead onto the floor directly from outside can also damage hardwood floors. Keep shoes clean and use mats at entrances to wipe grit off your feet. Hard cleats should also not be worn in the house. High heals should be in good condition to be worn on hardwood floors. If the metal part of the heel is exposed it will cause damage to any floor it's on. Oil-based cleaners - products such as Murphy's Oil Soap, Pledge, Mop'n Glow, Endust and other waxes or polishes can harm the surface of your floor and make it difficult to re-coat it in the future. Ammonia cleaners such as Fantastic are too abrasive for hardwood floors and might dull the finish. Over exposure to sunlight - as with anything else, the sun and its UV rays over time will cause your floors to dull or discolour.
    
    

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Maintenance Questions

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Hardwood floors are an investment that will be with you for a long time. Properly maintained, hardwood floors will keep a "like-new" quality for generations. The tips below will help you properly care for your floor. If you still have maintenance questions please contact us for further assistance.

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• 1.    Preventative Maintenance
  • Preventative maintenance is a term commonly used today, but its importance cannot be overlooked. The following are some basic rules that apply to all hardwood and laminated floors. Use walk-off mats at all exterior doors to prevent dirt, grit and sand from getting into your house. Throw rugs or small sections of carpet inside entrances are also helpful. Be sure to use rugs that allow the floor to "breathe". Avoid rugs with rubber backing or other non-ventilating material. Dirt and grit are your floor's worst enemies and that includes hard surface laminates as well as hardwood floors.
• 2.    Protect Against Scratching
  • Put soft, protective glides on the legs of all your furniture. This will allow the furniture to be moved easily without scuffing or scratching the floor. Be sure to clean the glides regularly as dirt may become embedded in them. It is also important to make sure that the glides are in good repair. Some furniture may require "barrel" type roller casters {ball type casters may damage the floor}. Non-marking rubber casters are the best. Avoid any type of plastic caster. Vacuum or dry mop regularly, as often as you vacuum carpets {brush attachments work well, sweep or use a dust mop as needed}. Do not use a household dust treatment! This may cause your floor to become slick or dull the finish.
• 3.    Should Water Be Used to Clean My New Hardwood Floor?
  • It is important to never use water to clean your hardwood floors. Excess water will cause deterioration of the wood itself as well as the finish. Wipe up food and other spills using a dampened (not dripping wet) cloth or a bonnet. Then wipe the flooring with another dry cloth, paper towel or a bonnet. If the area remains sticky, lightly mist some hardwood cleaner on the area and repeat the procedure.
• 4.    Will High Heels Damage My New Hardwood Floor?
  • This is one of the biggest questions from those who are worried about the durability of hardwood flooring under high heels. Keep high heels in good repair. Heels that have worn down or have lost their protective cap (exposing the metal support rod) will dent any floor surface! Observing these simple suggestions will go a long way toward protecting your investment and keeping your floors looking beautiful for life.
• 5.    How do I care for the finish of my floor?
  • There are many types of finishes used on hardwood floors today. Sometimes different finishes are used in different rooms and therefore the type of care and maintenance may vary. It is important for you to know how your floors were finished - what stain, type of finish (brand names) or which manufacturer's "pre-finished" product was used - to ensure that proper floor care procedures are being followed. Call us with your specific details so we can best advise you. Keep this information on hand as it will be important later on should you choose to "refinish" your floors. The following sections outline the proper care and maintenance guidelines for the various types of hardwood floor finishes available.
• 6.    How should I Care For Polyurethane, Water Based and Factory Finishes?
  • Keep dirt and grit off the floor. Sweep, dry mop and/or vacuum regularly. Keep walk-off and door mats clean. Wipe up spills immediately with a dry cloth, paper towel or a bonnet. For sticky spills lightly mist the area with the hardwood floor cleaner and repeat procedure. For general cleaning, spray a 6' x 6' area with the hardwood floor cleaner and use the applicator in a "back and forth" motion to clean the floor and remove any excess cleaner. Repeat procedure until the entire floor has been completed. It is not necessary to re-wipe the area with a dry towel as the hardwood cleaner has been designed to dry quickly without streaking. When luster does not return in traffic areas such as hallways, kitchens or doorways, the floors may need to be "re-coated" or "re-finished". Never wax a polyurethane, water base or surface finished floor! Wax will generally cause these floors to become slippery. A waxed floor will show water marks as moisture will cause the wax to turn white. Once waxed these floors cannot be screened and re-coated. Instead your floors will have to be completely sanded down to bare wood to restore and refinish the floor.
• 7.    How Should I Care For Wax Finishes?
  • Keep dirt and grit off the floor. Sweep and/or vacuum regularly. Keep walk-off mats and door mats clean. Wipe up spills immediately with a dry cloth or dry paper towel. Use a lightly dampened cloth for sticky spills and buff with a dry cloth to restore the luster. When the floor is dull, buff first to see if it will restore the luster prior to re-waxing. When high traffic areas no longer respond to buffing alone, wax only these areas and buff the entire area to an even luster. When the entire floor is in need of attention, clean and wax with a single product. Use a liquid paste wax and cleaner that are specifically designed for hardwood floors that have a wax finish! If your floor is stained with a dark stain, then select a product that also contains stain. Be sure to follow the instructions on the label carefully. Apply the product evenly and wipe up the excess as you go. Let dry completely, and buff to the desired luster. Depending on the traffic on your floor this process should only need to be done once or twice a year. When all else fails, call your local hardwood flooring professional for do-it-yourself suggestions.
• 8.    How Should I Care For Acrylic Impregnated Finishes?
  • This finish has been injected into the cells of the wood and is fused throughout the entire thickness of the wear layer. The general cleaning practices for this product involve a spray and buff system requiring a commercial buffer. This practice is recommended for commercial applications. For residential installations where a commercial buffer is not available, you should refer to the manufacturer's recommended products.
• 9.    How Should I Care For White or Bleached Floors?
  • As with light coloured carpets or vinyl these hardwood and hard surface laminate floors are far more susceptible to dirt and traffic areas than those with dark stained or natural finishes, therefore they need an increased frequency of maintenance. Sweep and vacuum often, wipe up spills immediately, and follow the maintenance guidelines recommended for the type of finish used on your floor. Your may notice tiny cracks or separations between the strips of hardwood flooring. No need to worry, this is a natural characteristic of all wood flooring. Due to the hydroscopic nature of wood flooring, your floor will expand and contract as the humidity levels in your home rise and fall. During dry seasons when the heating is on in your home, these cracks will appear to be more prevalent. On a white stained or bleached floor the contrast of these black lines will seem more prominent. Be aware that depending on the type of finish used on your floor, bleached or white floors may tend to shade over time.
• 10.  Will humidity effect my floor?
  • Ideally the humidity in your house should be kept between 45% and 55%. This is a big step to ensure that moisture does not penetrate the floor and that movement of the floor (shrinking and expanding) is kept to a minimum, which will greatly prolong the life of your floor. It is not realistic for you to keep the relative humidity above 45% during the very coldest days of the year or below 55% during the very humid and hot weather of the summer. The use of a humidifier in the winter and a de-humidifier or air conditioner in the summer will help keep the relative humidity more constant.